New Tracky - 05 636R and how to get it working before 29/3!

[Cedric]

G'day all..

Well the time had come to find a new tracky and to upgrade from the old 7R. I really enjoyed riding that bike and I am at a stage where I'm happy with the times I've been riding round EC in, and the reason to upgrade is purely economic. It's a false economy to keep sinking money into a bike which is getting fairly old and won't realise too much more performance gains for the money I'll keep sinking into it. Basically it's going to cheaper for me to get a newish tracky and upgrade that to use for track days.

I'm posting for three reasons. Firstly to share the ideas and mistakes of mine when converting a write off to a tracky, to learn from the more mechanically minded amongst us (I'm good at zip ties, but not much else) and to provide something to read if you're bored at work! So please indulge my irritating and haphazard writing style as things pop into my head.. Please feel free to point out I'm an numbnuts for doing something the way I did, I'd appreciate it! :D

After searching for around a month I found a 05 ZX636R for $5K, a repairable write-off that I just recently freighted up from Melbourne. I took a few dodgy mobile pics here..

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3472/3306246694_c625712ab1.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3407/3306246442_bc46d8596f_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3385/3306246068_f58b273529_b.jpg

It's been laid down on both sides with scratches on the fairings and engine covers, and the clip ons/rear sets are scratched/broken, but I don't mind since I'm putting race glass, rear sets and new clip ons on it anyway.

Came with a few goodies though, an Arata slip on, PC and Hel braided front lines.

I've picked up some Wet4U race glass, rear sets and clip ons and I'll post pics as I put the bits and bobs on. So far all I've done has amounted to pulling the broken bits of fairing off and cleaned it up a bit.

Anyway, I've run into a problem though and I'd appreciate if anyone has any ideas. It came with a flat battery so I haven't had the chance to crank it until I picked up. I purchased a battery today and put it in and proceeded to crank it like a hero. Nothing. I got my 'Startyabastard' and sprayed a copious amount into the intakes and continued cranking which still resulted in nothing.

I pulled the tank off, double checked there was fuel and disconnected the fuel line and cranked the bike again - and nothing came out of the metal fuel line - I was expecting it to pump some fuel out. I then took the fuel pump out of the tank and visually inspected it. There was some corrosion on some wires leading to the fuel pump so I cleaned it up and put it all back together and tried again. Still nothing.

I went back to the trusty service manual and tested the voltage for the fuel pump with my multimeter and got nothing. I was expecting to get 12V for a few seconds while the fuel pump fires up (accompanied by a noise which isn't present obviously) but nothing happened. I then tested the relay box by measuring the resistance between two points, and this is the part I don't really understand.

I tested between sets of two points in the relay box, and I was supposed to get infinity for the first set of points, and 'not infinity - the actual reading depends on the hand unit' for the second. The first set of points my multimeter read 1 which I assumed was infinity, right? and the second result was 230 on the 2000 setting on the multimeter. Does this sound right?

So if I'm reading this right, does the relay box check out? I'm not confident I checked the voltage to the pump correctly, so by my thinking it's the fuel pump that is the problem. And does this mean I need to replace the fuel pump or can it be repaired? How much is a fuel pump anyway?

I'll post again once I make some headway on the fuel issue. In the meantime, I'm taking my dented rim to the fella raised in Harte's rim straightening thread

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3504/3305418239_069e5cb3a4.jpg

It looks a little worse than it is but I'll post pics afterwards.

Cheers for reading and any help greatly appreciated!:ayyy:

[Mr.Ed]

Unfortunately I struggle to use zip-ties so I can't really provide any helpful info... But I do like the bike! Congrats for picking up a nice bike mate!:ayyy:
And remember to be careful while removing the road bits as you can sell them on ebay and make a few bucks!

[daskip]

well you have obviously established that there is no power getting to the pump

check the following

- fuses
- fuel pump relay ( usually under seat / rear cowling )
- feed 12v directly from the battery to the pump and see if it fires over

im going to put my money on fuse / relay has blown

OR the worst of the worst

wrong keys / stuffed chip reader / stuffed ecu and the immobiliser has killed the fuel circuit

i thought u were in QLD for a second there with the QLD number plates on that car then read that you were in pyrmont

[SLAC]

buggered if i know, i have a good mate that is a mechanic and also a auto elec.. I would start with fuses 1st...
How much are you flogging the old girl off for? Is it eligible for PCRA?

[muzz]

have those got the tip over sensors?
maybe thats tripped ...not sure if they reset themselves once righted

[Cedric]

Thanks guys,

Checked the fuses, they're all good. I think the relays are fine but I don't really know how to read the results that I posted before about the multimeter/relay points.

I have the red key for it that kicks it over fine so I also hope it's not the stuffed ECU/immob. If it was, it wouldn't kick the bike over, right?

I'll check out the tip over sensor, cheers Muzz.

Slac, pretty confident the ZX7R is eligible for PCRA but I can never keep up with them changing/debating the rules. I haven't thought about flogging it off yet but I'd probably want a little over $3K for it... I'll post it up here first when I decide to sell it

[tazkenny]

have those got the tip over sensors?
maybe thats tripped ...not sure if they reset themselves once righted

My 03 636 had a tilt switch, no idea about resetting it, sure a quickle google will help.

And your a b'sard.... I'm looking for one of these as a tracky too. Good find.

[daskip]

tilt sensors generally dont screw up after being tipped and there usually behind the dash or intergrated into the dash

if you put the red key in does the bike start and actually run?

[Cedric]

Just checked the tip sensor, the voltage getting to the sensor is within spec but I didn't realise what that was and needed to remove it to get to the battery. So the bike's been thinking it's upside down the whole time...:cursing:

Anyway, like I said the power's getting there but I don't know if the delicate system inside has been damaged... so I might just replace it. After making sure it was RWU I again started the bike but the fuel pump just isn't having it.

Anyone know of a way to connect a multimeter up to a connection to test the circuit without cutting wires? The manual keeps talking about this needle adapter, presumably something you can stick inline and test..

[zRoYz]

Angle sensors reset when bike is back withing allowable angle but most need the ign turned off/on again to reset.

Have you had a good look at the wiring harnesses on everything to make sure no wires broken due to crash.

I would say your fuel pump is fine & the problem is one of the safety circuits or a simple broken wire.

Worst case the ECU immobilizer system is to blame as some bikes will still crank just not start.

Start with a wiring diagram & trace back from fuel pump to see what activates it & so on if nothing blatantly shows up.

[Cedric]

tilt sensors generally dont screw up after being tipped and there usually behind the dash or intergrated into the dash

if you put the red key in does the bike start and actually run?

Yeah, the starter motor cranks but there's no fuel being pumped out of the fuel tank. I have the fuel line disconnected with a rag to catch the fuel but nothing comes out of there as it's cranking over.

[stetto]

Nice bike mate and good luck with the fix and the sale of the 7r

[Cedric]

Cheers Stetto..:ayyy:

[muzz]

i take it the pumps not priming when you turn the key on

[SIX36]

I have a '03 zx6r ECU not sure if it will help but worth a try if u want it? Looks identical to the ECU in my 06'zx6r

[Cedric]

Right on Muzz, it's not doing that little buzz on turning the key. Starting to think it may be the pump...

Thanks Mr848, will see how I go and if I can't sort it I'll PM you.. cheers :D

[muzz]

one stupid thing that fucked me once...and i know its stupid ,check your run switch on your bars
if that dont work chuck a holley four barrel carbie on the bitch

[Ed_GSXR]

I tested between sets of two points in the relay box, and I was supposed to get infinity for the first set of points, and 'not infinity - the actual reading depends on the hand unit' for the second. The first set of points my multimeter read 1 which I assumed was infinity, right? and the second result was 230 on the 2000 setting on the multimeter. Does this sound right?

So if I'm reading this right, does the relay box check out?

Not sure what you're trying to test here mate. The coil of the relay? If so, you definitely don't want infinity (open circuit) - I'm guessing a reading of 230 ohms would be about right (indicating the resistance of the coil).

You're checking for voltage using DC right? Good luck!

[muzz]

try hot wiring the pump relay

[zRoYz]

Seeing your bike is an 05 the 03 ECU probably isn't compatible.

Modern bikes wont fire up the fuel pump if a safety circuit in locking it out, you can test it buy disconnecting & applying direct battery feed.

[Cedric]

I'll try hot wiring it to isolate it as an issue or see if there's a safety circuit.. thanks zRoYz..

[Johnny]

Killswitch ? sidestand switch ?, clutch engage switch ?

[Mr.Ed]

My 03 636 had a tilt switch, no idea about resetting it, sure a quickle google will help.

And your a b'sard.... I'm looking for one of these as a tracky too. Good find.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/06-Kawasaki-ZX6-Race-Track-Bike_W0QQitemZ220364767336QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Mo torcycles?hash=item220364767336&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A1|39%3A1|240%3A1318
:ayyy:

[burnsey]

Hey mate,
Enjoying the writeup so far. Shame you're stuck with this issue. Hope you get it resolved soon so us bored folk at work can keep up to date on your progress! =)

btw, someone mentioned you live in pyrmont? I live there too and am trying to figure out how i'll best be able to fit a tracky and more specifically a trailer to tow it. Just wondering how you've solved this issue? I assume you only have the typical single car park in your building?

Cheers,
Burnsey

[tazkenny]

btw, someone mentioned you live in pyrmont? I live there too and am trying to figure out how i'll best be able to fit a tracky and more specifically a trailer to tow it. Just wondering how you've solved this issue? I assume you only have the typical single car park in your building?
Burnsey

I am going to use an easy trailer folded up against the back of my space. I should be able to squeeze two bikes against it and my car. Single space also, but my car is small.

[Mr.Ed]

I am going to use an easy trailer folded up against the back of my space. I should be able to squeeze two bikes against it and my car. Single space also, but my car is small.

How much is an easy trailer going for these days? I have the same problem, only a single spot (but have unlimited street parking, except for sunny weekends - live in Tamarama) and was thinking of living the trailer on the street... bad idea? Do ppl really steal these things? Can I secure it somehow?

[burnsey]

Yeah fair enough. I've been looking at the easy trailers too... Looks like they run from about $800-$1500 depending on your config.
Which config are you looking at? I keep worrying that their full length runners for the tyres to go into will be too slim for track bikes (like most motorcyle trailers).

Mr. Ed, i spose if you put a ClampIt style wheel lock on then it should be ok? and maybe some lock nuts also?

Burnsey

[Mr.Ed]

I guess I'll have to try and do that... I'm still considering whether I should buy a car + trailer or just a ute. :confused1:

[tazkenny]

I guess I'll have to try and do that... I'm still considering whether I should buy a car + trailer or just a ute. :confused1:

Sorry Cedric.. kinda hijacked this thread... but isn't a Ute difficult to load by yourself ?


Anyway, Anyluck with the Nija fuel pump ?

[heretic]

cant really contribute much but, when I cut a new key for my old blade I could crank the engine but it wouldnt fire. As soon as I got the key progrmaed then it would start right up. might be dodgy ecu maybe you can borrow one from some and see.

[Cedric]

Hi all,

Hotwired the fuel pump this morning to see what it would do, and voila, it buzzed away happily. So that's fine, - my plan is to keep working backward testing the components and hopefully I will be able to source the fault.

I rang the Kawasaki dealer in Parramatta.. he seemed to think it wouldn't be the tilt sensor because if there was a fault with that, the FI light would have come on. Anyway, my plan is to disconnect it and see if that does occur; if it does, then I think I'll get a new relay because those three are the main components that the service manual mention.

I'm still hoping it's not the ECU goddamnit!! :D

[Cedric]

Hey mate,
Enjoying the writeup so far. Shame you're stuck with this issue. Hope you get it resolved soon so us bored folk at work can keep up to date on your progress! =)

btw, someone mentioned you live in pyrmont? I live there too and am trying to figure out how i'll best be able to fit a tracky and more specifically a trailer to tow it. Just wondering how you've solved this issue? I assume you only have the typical single car park in your building?

Cheers,
Burnsey

Pretty easy for me Burnsey, I made sure I had a dual car park space. It's pretty big, fits the trailer/3 bikes and the girl's buzz box in there, but it's starting to get a little squashy.

Give me a buzz if you're heading out to a trackday when I am mate, I'll give you a lift if you're keen.

[WET4URacing]

how about this . you bought it and the fuka sold it to you or auction with an ignition and a red key from another bike(from wrekers) ?????????

[Cedric]

Ok, this is interesting.

- The fuel pump works when hotwiring it. I fed it a little fuel and when I wired it direct to the battery the pump whirred and there was fuel coming out of the pipe.

- There is no resistance between the leads from the fuel pump and the only connection to it.

- The connection which feeds the fuel pump from the loom is showing 12V when I turn the ignition. It doesn't turn off however. The manual states (and my 10R does) make the whirring sound from the fuel pump for 2 seconds as it pressurises the fuel system then it's supposed to stop. The live wires continue to show 12V on the multimeter.

- The tilt sensor does not result in the FI light coming on. Nor does flipping the tilt sensor cut the 12V the fuel pump is receiving.

Still the bloody thing won't pump

All fuses intact, bike is in neutral, side stand is up, kill switch off, and bike is cranking the starter motor. This is starting to shit me. How can the fuel pump with 0 resistance between it and a 12V power source refuse to work? I guess the anomaly in all this is the tilt sensor which doesn't seem to cut the power to the fuel pump when turned upside down but it doesn't turn on the FI light either which was expected.

[Cedric]

how about this . you bought it and the fuka sold it to you or auction with an ignition and a red key from another bike(from wrekers) ?????????

So a different key remachined to fit my ignition? Perhaps but I wonder how you could tell. Do you know much about it?

[zRoYz]

Don't be caught out most of the switching is performed on the neutral side, what that means is the pump will have a constant 12vdc but no neutral feed which is same thing as having neutral direct feed & switching the 12vdc.

I'm not up on the kawa immobilizer circuit but on the honda/yam the ign sensor is locked into the ECU & is programed for the chip inside the key. If you don't have the original master key yam or key serial code honda you can't reprogram system & have to buy the complete system. The work around is US soured ECU & wiring harness as they don't have immobilizer systems (latest models might haven't bothered to keep up to date).

[WET4URacing]

no i'm sayin another ignition switch and key from another bike

[Stu23]

but matched to the wrong ECU thats a nasty trick if its true

[Cedric]

Thanks for the help guys.
Researched the immob. System in the manual and if there's a prob then the FI light flashes. Doesn't do it on mine.

I wonder if there's a way to check if the ignition switch matches the ecu. Will investigate.

At any rate I'm running fast out of things within my abilty to rectify so I'm thinking of booking it in. Anyone recommend a good place? I was just thinking parra Kawasaki but I'm open to suggestion.

[seals]

i had the same symptions with the CBR when I got it. The fuel pump relay was dodgy, tested ok... however in the end it was easy to test it with a replacement.

volia

might be worth a try.

[jace]

how about this . you bought it and the fuka sold it to you or auction with an ignition and a red key from another bike(from wrekers) ?????????

+1
How many keys did you get with it?
If you only got one key, its possible that its the key thats not coded as bikes usually comes with a set of 3 keys. Two will run the bike & one will not, it will turn the bike on ,open the rear seat & lock the bike etc.... but will not start the bike.
It is possible that the cheeky bugger kept those keys, seen it happen before...Hope I'm wrong, because this will cost you a lot of $$$$...



.

[Turtle]

+1
How many keys did you get with it?
If you only got one key, its possible that its the key thats not coded as bikes usually comes with a set of 3 keys. Two will run the bike & one will not, it will turn the bike on ,open the rear seat & lock the bike etc.... but will not start the bike.
It is possible that the cheeky bugger kept those keys, seen it happen before...Hope I'm wrong, because this will cost you a lot of $$$$...



.

Yep....new ignition.....

[Stu23]

Kawasaki should be able to tell you re the keys if they match up to the bike and ecu or not ?

[Cedric]

I have the red key only. I was under the impression that this being the master key would operate the bike plus be able to make new copies of the normally coded keys.

Would it be worth my registering a normal key with the red one? Seems unusual that the master key wouldn't operate the bike.

[Turtle]

As long as you have the key# you can order new ones

[jace]

I have the red key only. I was under the impression that this being the master key would operate the bike plus be able to make new copies of the normally coded keys.

Would it be worth my registering a normal key with the red one? Seems unusual that the master key wouldn't operate the bike.

Sorry to tell you, but the red Key is not a master key...

Thats the problem.

.

[jace]

As long as you have the key# you can order new ones

I dont know about Kwaka dealers, Suzuki dealers wont sell you a key unless you have one that starts the bike, key numbers dont mean jack....:confused:

[Cedric]

Sorry to tell you, but the red Key is not a master key...

Thats the problem.

.

So what is the purpose of the red key then?i think I am able to make copies off it because I only have the black key to my 10R and if I lose that I'm stuffed because I asked kawasaki about it.

I'll call kawasaki tommorow though and post up the low down for all...

[Cedric]

As long as you have the key# you can order new ones

Where would I find that?

[jace]

So what is the purpose of the red key then?i think I am able to make copies off it because I only have the black key to my 10R and if I lose that I'm stuffed because I asked kawasaki about it.

Read my previous post about the red Key. The red Key does not carry the security chip, its just a blank.

Its not just a case of just cutting another Key.

First you have to buy a key that hold the security chip, then get it cut to fit, then get it programed to the ECU.

Most ECU's only have enough memory to program four or five keys as each key has a different code.

I don't know why but most dealers have a policy, that unless you have one Key that runs the bike, they will not issue another key...:cursing:



.

[Turtle]

Where would I find that?

They come with a small tag attached to the service key with a number stamped on it.....if not check the manual to see if it was noted down.....bit of a long shot

[Lopeman]

can you put it in dealr mode and check for errors? thats the first thing i would be doing

[jace]

can you put it in dealr mode and check for errors? thats the first thing i would be doing

pointless if there is no FI light activated.


.

[Ed_GSXR]

That fucking sucks.

Worst case scenario, what's required? A new ignition system with keys? Or being as it's a trackbike would a kwak dealer be able to bridge the ignition at the ECU and set up a push button start?

EDIT - If it's a repairable write off, wouldn't the insurance company have the keys?

[Cedric]

Thanks for your advice Jace. I understand about how the Immob system works but I'm fairly sure that with kwaks the red key is the master key and is the only key that can make copies in black. I've tried before to make copies of black to black but they wont do it without the red.

At any rate I'll call them and check tommorow. I appreciate the advice, cheers:)

[Turtle]

That fucking sucks.

Worst case scenario, what's required? A new ignition system with keys? Or being as it's a trackbike would a kwak dealer be able to bridge the ignition at the ECU and set up a push button start?

EDIT - If it's a repairable write off, wouldn't the insurance company have the keys?

Nah they should be with the salvage company, but chances are just the one key is there and the previous owner has them.....

[jace]

I'd be hunting on Ebay for the whole kit second hand, Keys, ignition & ecu.They do come up fro time to time in the U.S.


But before that, I'd get on the forum in search on some info on how to get around it.
Its worth a try, might get lucky...


.

[Ed_GSXR]

But would the salvage company have both keys? When you write off a bike, the insurance company (my only experience is in the UK) always want you to post them, spare keys, log book etc. I dunno...

Anyway, good luck Cedric. A call to kawasaki in the morning should tell you everything.

[Turtle]

But would the salvage company have both keys? When you write off a bike, the insurance company (my only experience is in the UK) always want you to post them, spare keys, log book etc. I dunno...

Anyway, good luck Cedric. A call to kawasaki in the morning should tell you everything.

Nah only what was at the accident scene..........usually when they take them to the yard they only get whats there at the time......

[Turtle]

Mine was picked up from the bike shop, so they only took what was there

[1down5up]

try a call to the auction house they might have them or try to track the last owner someone has them make a few calls ya never know

[zRoYz]

With Honda hiss there is no master key so when your bike is new your supplied a serial number with keys on a tag that number will get you a spare key from factory.

If your key is a master then it should work unless something has been changed.

When you buy a bike from insurance company you are very lucky to get all the keys & they don't care 2 hoots about the new buyer so contacting old owner they wont do & if the spare keys are sent to them they just throw them away. My VFR was that deal but I new the original owner & he sent the spare to insurance company, I sent 100's of faxes emails with no reply & even rung them but the didn't want to know me.

I would be asking a kawa dealer how there system works & if there is a diagnostic to tell if key matches everything else.

[Cedric]

Thanks for all the comments guys.

I will order a new fuel pump relay tomorrow and replace that in the junction box, going for the least cost option first, and also try to learn a little more about the way all the keys work. With any luck I should be a little closer to working this gremlin out.. I'm committed now anyway, buying the bike! :)

[Cedric]

Great news!! It lives!!

The problem was the immobiliser amplifier. I was sitting here thinking about the various components of the immob system (antenna, amplifier) thumbing through the service manual and I realised I hadn't seen an amplifier connection on the bike. The manual stated it was attached to the right inner side of the fairing, that I'd pulled off in haste to get the thing assessed and make a list of what I needed to replace for the raceglass. Anyway, plugged the amplifier back in and she fired into life first time...

Well now I feel stupid! But happy that it's not going to cost me the kidneys of my first born to replace the ECU and ignition switch. Anyway I want to thank everyone who posted with ideas about solutions - truly appreciated. Now I can get on with applying some bits and pieces lying around and start preparing the race glass.

Cheers!

[Mr.Ed]

Awesome!:ayyy:

[jace]

Thats good news....:clap:





.

[Stu23]

Now thats what we want to here, excellent.

[heretic]

good work.

[burnsey]

Pretty easy for me Burnsey, I made sure I had a dual car park space. It's pretty big, fits the trailer/3 bikes and the girl's buzz box in there, but it's starting to get a little squashy.

Give me a buzz if you're heading out to a trackday when I am mate, I'll give you a lift if you're keen.


Ah, smart one you are getting a double car spot... very smart!! :clap:

Cheers for the offer on a lift. Definitely keep that in mind.

And well done investigating the problem and getting it started! looking forward to plenty of photos with progress updates! :ayyy:

Burnsey

[seals]

Excellent news!

Can I suggest that u take the bike to Kawa dealer and get a spare key cut and coded. Piece of mind and all..

I only had 1 key that worked, and got a spare made and coded. I didnt need the master or the serial number either. Not sure if Kawa dealers have the same system as my Honda guy.

[KW4K4]

its great to solve these things but i know how you can feel stupid - i had typed up an early post saying the immobiliser is in the left hand fairing - and that you hadnt probably pulled it out - i went through your exact same pain when i had my 05 636 RWO which i converted to a tracky - but didnt post because in your inital posts you talked of the immobiliser which i figured you must have found - oh well ill talk up next time!

[KW4K4]

ps - you probably have the service manual as a pdf? next time you are at the track let me know as i have the manual in a hard copy - and wont be needing it any more after what troy did to it below

http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/8070/mrhappybt8.jpg

[Cedric]

Thanks guys... such a simple solution! Not used to this immobiliser electrickery.. No such nonsense on the ol' trusty 7R but that's progress for you eh..

Yeah I'll definitely get a black key coded Seals.. That really would be an expensive mistake to lose the red one..

Going to start work on preparing the fairings once I can source some lime green paint. Will post pics of the pandemonium as I go. Also I'm getting my fixed rim back from the place in Smithfield, again I'll post pics of the handiwork.

Cheers!

[Cedric]

its great to solve these things but i know how you can feel stupid - i had typed up an early post saying the immobiliser is in the left hand fairing - and that you hadnt probably pulled it out - i went through your exact same pain when i had my 05 636 RWO which i converted to a tracky - but didnt post because in your inital posts you talked of the immobiliser which i figured you must have found - oh well ill talk up next time!

Ah well got there in the end Kw4ka... at least it's out there now and hopefully saves some poor soul from tearing their hair out wondering why the freaking fuel pump wont do his/her bidding..

I remember that crash - T1 EC? Cheers about the service manual; you're right, I do have the PDF and it's a right pain in the arse taking the PC down to the dungeon that I like to call my garage - That would be awesome, I'll take you up on that one. Thanks!

[Ed_GSXR]

WOO HOO!!!

Like I said mate, I'm just down the road if you need the loan of any tools or whatever.

[stetto]

Awesome news for u, i did the replace the cheapest thing first solution, ended up nearly replacing everything. At least u don't have to worry about that now :ayyy:

[Cedric]

Yeah it's running sweet as now! The Arata slip on sounds awesome.

Went to get the rim from out at Smithfield and seriously, you'd hardly notice there was a dent like it in the first place. I thought about posting some pics but it's irrelevant, it looks just like new. David did a great job, he warned me though at the time I dropped it off that it may have some paint damage and a few dents, but it turned out good as. Good job and he accommodated me coming around after work to pick it up so that was great.

Took the rims down to Craig White to get some fresh new Bridgey slicks put on - $510 fitted for sweet new rubber, mmmmmm! Installed them on the bike which as we all know is a serious contender for the biggest PITA about having a bike but got there in the end (and all with only one rear stand to which required some ingenuity and the patience of a Tibetan monk from the girlfriend.. Going to change to Bridgestone for a few sets of slicks because I'm finding the Dunlop GP Racers a little unpredictable sometimes so I'll see how I go. Besides, there's only $30 difference for the slicks fitted so not that much.

Want to get stuck into drilling the holes for the fairing tomorrow but I fear the pub may offset these plans.. :beer::ayyy:

[Cedric]

Approximately 7 hours in the garage and a lot of itchiness from fibreglass has produced this svelte little number..

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3629/3334586618_46283e03bd_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3098/3333751767_c1350989e8_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3297/3333751521_1b95386174_o.jpg

Been a while since I last posted mainly because I've been waiting for various little parts, like brackets, rubber grommets and the like from Kawasaki. Anyway, I have done the following..

- Installed shorty pazzo levers
- Installed Wet4U rearsets
- Wrapped the rims in Bridgestone's finest
- Bled the brakes, change oil, oil filter etc...
- Whacked a K&N in there too for good measure..
- Fitted the race glass.

Race glass was a okay but a bit of a pain getting it to all line up and fit correctly although I suspect this is due to my ineptitude than anything else. Taken her for a few runs on my top secret test track and it's nice and light - feels about as powerful as my old 7R but so much more nimble and maneuverable. I can't wait to get it out on the track on the 29th!

Anyway, now the painting shenaningans begin in earnest. I'm going to rattle can the fairings and get the tank done professionally. Basically the procedure I'm going to follow is this

- Sand the fairings down and apply 2 - 3 coats of primer.
- Sand that smooth then paint 2 coats of colour and leave overnight to dry
- Sand that down with 800 and continue painting a few more coats, sanding inbetween.
- Apply coats of clearcoat

Anyone see anything wrong with this logic? This is just what I've gathered from other threads as likely to give me a reasonable result.

Also, with the tank, not sure if you can see but the forward half of it is covered by a plastic shroud which feels like it's made out of the stock fairing material. Is this able to be painted along with the metal tank or am I better off getting a new one from Kawasaki.. I really hope so - I don't see why it couldn't be painted, just throwing it out there. A new one is a cool $500..

[WET4URacing]

just paint it. looks good

[Mr.Ed]

If it was me I wouldn't even paint it till my first outing on the new bike, just in case... but then again I'm extra-cautious I think.
The bike looks tops mate! I honestly hope I didn't jinx it!:lmao:

[Cedric]

If it was me I wouldn't even paint it till my first outing on the new bike, just in case... but then again I'm extra-cautious I think.
The bike looks tops mate! I honestly hope I didn't jinx it!:lmao:

Yep, hahaha, been thinking exactly the same thing! Wouldn't want to muck up my nice new lime green paint job in the kitty litter at T1... :lmao: sound familiar anyone?

[Mr.Ed]

It's like my previous bike I had some brand new farings at home but would never put them on in case I had a minor crash... Funny thing is, after I bought them I never did!!!
At least the new owner good some nicer farings then the ones I had...

[DanFX]

Yep, hahaha, been thinking exactly the same thing! Wouldn't want to muck up my nice new lime green paint job in the kitty litter at T1... :lmao: sound familiar anyone?

lol his fairings are back at the painters, ready for next time :ninja:

[Fezz]

lol his fairings are back at the painters, ready for next time :ninja:

Haha, I've become a regular now... He expects me to drop the fairings down after every track day now!

Looks trick Ced!

[Cedric]

Thanks Fezz..

I'm about halfway through finger painting it, will post pics when I'm done.

[oldblade]

bike looks good

[Cedric]

Friends, RATS, countrymen, lend me your ears...

Well the shakedown test of the 636 was a little disappointing - after sorting the rearsets and coolant probs (Falco your powers of observation know no limits:lmao:), I'd find that in 2nd thru 5th gears I'd rev her till 10,000 rpm then it would rev it's tits off but give me absolutely no drive.. so clicking through the gears till 6th the revs would fall back into the mid range and bog down. It got progressively worse and by the end of the day, I'd only be able to rev it to 6,000 before it would go nuts and redline.

I think it's the clutch plates slipping but having never experienced a shagged clutch, just wondering what you guys think - am I right? I really hope it's this as opposed to any transmission problems.. Just wanted to (hopefully) confirm my suspicions.

Cheers all :ayyy:

[WET4URacing]

yep clutch is slippin

[Cedric]

Sweet, thanks Wetty

Easy to replace the clutch plates? Any special tools required?

[zRoYz]

You will probably need a ratchet gun to remove the hub nut unless you have the basket holding tool. Best thing is to find out plate thickness spec & measure them once out. If in spec & no metal plates warped then soak the fiber plates in oil & buy another set of springs which are cheap & your problem will probably go away. I bought a VFR750 that had massive clutch slip & was told by x owner needed clutch, so I ripped it out but all the plates were in spec. I bought stronger springs (due to was going to use as track bike) & that same clutch is still in bike no slipping 2 years later & is now back on the road with another owner.

[WET4URacing]

Sweet, thanks Wetty

Easy to replace the clutch plates? Any special tools required?

no just some T bars and a micrometer to measure the thickness of the steel plates.
there mite be diff thickness 1's in there to make up the rite clutch pack thickness .
change the oil and filter and soak the new fibres in the new oil you will be using.
not hard just time consuming coz u have to measure then order the bits, and measure the springs to make sure they are long enuf.

[Johnny]

Not one capital in there Wetty, and now deliberately spelling wrong too, how hard it must be to stay stubburn :lmao: .
Didnt think youd last this long, let alone build on it :lmao:.

[WET4URacing]

the t in t bar was a capital. i like my T bars. they are the shit

[Johnny]

LOL... :lmao:

[Turtle]

LOL... :lmao:

Geez look out the spelling police are out.......

[Cedric]

no just some T bars and a micrometer to measure the thickness of the steel plates.
there mite be diff thickness 1's in there to make up the rite clutch pack thickness .
change the oil and filter and soak the new fibres in the new oil you will be using.
not hard just time consuming coz u have to measure then order the bits, and measure the springs to make sure they are long enuf.

No worries.

So although the steel plates are different thicknesses due to the slipper clutch, the existing steel plates don't reduce in thickness through usage?

[WET4URacing]

there r 3 diff thickness plates to make up the desired clutch pack. best read the manual 1st. u dont want to stuff it up , will only cost more $ in the long run

[Johnny]

Geez look out the spelling police are out.......
Another one you seemed to have missed out on... :lmao:


I couldnt give a shit about spelling, its, bah, he knows what Im talking about :lmao:


Hope you get it soughted Cedric :ayyy: