The great debate: Running in engines

[the rocketeer]

I think this might be moved to technical/mechanical section later on, but to maximise exposure/infomation i've posted it here...
(also if there is a previous thread running, plz link it as i've missed it:))

So i've been reading about "how to properly run in/break in an engine" and was wondering if this crazy idea would be plausable:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

For obivous reasons if would follow the advice from the manufacturer, as they would know more about the bike they built themselves and not to void the warranty... still i would like to hear from anyone who's ever come across this or have any 1st hand experience with this method.

[Kat00]

I love this debate.
Particularity the notion that the manufacturer would know better.
The very same manufacturer that says in the same manual as the break in procedure......the gear shifting procedure.....

1st to 2nd 20kph
2nd to 3rd 30kph
3rd to 4th 40kph
4th to 5th 50kph
5th to 6th 60kph.

Yep, they know better alright :lmao:

Belt the bastard from day one.

[zenodamper]

Still can't help feeling like....


http://clowneckie.com/photogallery/Oh_No_Please_Make_it_Stop.jpg


...but then again, one gets older and sees same things year in year out? Or maybe it's gets older and gets more cynical? Or is it related to why I watch Stargate and read all manner of things that make me feel alive; stuff that evokes further curiosity in being alive? Perhaps discussing same subjects makes me lose patience? Perhaps I should shuddup?

But as an answer, he has a point or 2 for sure...

A more interesting tangent would be to ask how many people have built up cylinder heads like he says? And how much increase did you see in poines with related fuel consumption drops or rises - how much did the FI need extra fuel squirting? And have you done heads via the "hogging out" means? ...but then I would be accused of hi-jacking if I asked that!

[jasonbw]

Back when this was last bought up I decided to read into it. Hell I don't know but I figure next time I buy new I'll trailer it to Steve @ maxpower and have him run it in on the dyno.

Yes, I'm serious.

[Dr freedom]

Imo, the real secret is when your using semi synth oil in a new motor & knowing when to change to fully synth.
The rest is common sense.. my personal preference is to flog the guts out of it if its a bike (say 5-6k revs max), drive normal if its a car (for 1500 klms)

In saying all this though, Ive bought 4 new vehicles my whole life, now I prefer to buy someone elses money pit or their low kay/early model machine. Last new vehicles I bought was my misses MG in 04 & my RX7 back in 91.. the same year I bought a KR1S

[zRoYz]

There is as much debate over this as tyres :eyecrazy:

In the old days you needed to bed in a motor due to internal parts were heavy & machining was mostly done with setup gigs & all by an operator so tolerances had more chance of being flaky.

Present day:
All motor parts are machined buy computer controlled machines (CNC) & the parts & materials there made out of are stronger & lighter.
In a nut shell what this means is tolerances are tighter & much more exact & with light weight parts the friction & internal loading has also decreased.

What does this mean, buy your new bike/car & rev that motor as far as you like from day 1. There are some simple rules to follow BUT which are as follows.
1. Don't stay on a constant speed for to long like on a freeway for first 1000 odd kms.
2. Don't use a full syn oil until your bike/car has min 10000kms.

I have seen 2x CBR600RR brand new bikes needing there motors striped because owners babied them & the internal parts glazed up so wouldn't spin up or rev out to max rpm because of this. The reason factories in most cases want us to be good & don't rev the shit out of new motor is they tend to feel they will have less warranty claims that way. If something is going to fail inside your new motor it will anyway it's just it will fail quicker if you stress motor so there hoping it will last the warranty period if there is a fault. Its much better to rev that motor up down the rpm range than only use 1/2.

I bought my VFR new road it out of show room & went straight on a group ride & think I passed most people on that ride with many funny looks thats a new bike. My VFR is an 04 & to date hasn't had one mechanical problem.

My personal choice is to dump there oil at 500km & add new (not full syn) & then dump that at 2000kms & then new oil every 5000-10000kms after that for life of bike. If your going to have engine problems there will be metal in oil at 500kms & if there is go to dealer & be cranky.

[Dr freedom]

I have seen 2x CBR600RR brand new bikes needing there motors striped because owners babied them & the internal parts glazed up so wouldn't spin up or rev out to max rpm because of this. The reason factories in most cases want us to be good & don't rev the shit out of new motor is they tend to feel they will have less warranty claims that way. If something is going to fail inside your new motor it will anyway it's just it will fail quicker if you stress motor so there hoping it will last the warranty period if there is a fault. Its much better to rev that motor up down the rpm range than only use 1/2..
Anything internal thats glazed is caused by a lack of oil pumping around, not because someone babies it.

& factory warranty advice exists not because they "feel" they will have less claims, they can all produce stats to show as such.

[zRoYz]

Anything internal thats glazed is caused by a lack of oil pumping around, not because someone babies it.

If you say so but Honda mech sent from Melb inspected them & was his diagnosis, but you would know better. Also higher revs also means more oil flow but I'm sure you know that.


& factory warranty advice exists not because they "feel" they will have less claims, they can all produce stats to show as such.

Factory warranty advise in most cases is there because they haven't rewritten that page of book in many years, but again people can believe what they want to believe, just like 40kph school zones save lives.

[jasonbw]

Anything internal thats glazed is caused by a lack of oil pumping around, not because someone babies it.

I wouldn't agree to that, picture what happens in a bore when using synthetic oil on a new engine.... very little friction... glazing... similar concept when not loading the engine up or not giving it revs despite what oil they use.

[jasonbw]

Roy pipped me at the 'post'. good pun hey :)

[Turtle]

I wouldn't agree to that, picture what happens in a bore when using synthetic oil on a new engine.... very little friction... glazing... similar concept when not loading the engine up or not giving it revs despite what oil they use.

+1....

[Turtle]

Loading up the engine very early in its life helps the rings bed in Better.....

[jasonbw]

Thats what I was trying to say, cheers mate. I don't know engines well enough, just this is what I believe!

[Dr freedom]

If you say so but Honda mech sent from Melb inspected them & was his diagnosis, but you would know better. Also higher revs also means more oil flow but I'm sure you know that.

Factory warranty advise in most cases is there because they haven't rewritten that page of book in many years, but again people can believe what they want to believe, just like 40kph school zones save lives.
No way! Honda sent a mechanic .. shut the gates!!
I spose your one of those gulible types that believes everything your "honda mechanic" vomits too lol.
Oh & mechanical engineering degree says "yea, I know better & dont just "feel" it" lol


I wouldn't agree to that, picture what happens in a bore when using synthetic oil on a new engine.... very little friction... glazing... similar concept when not loading the engine up or not giving it revs despite what oil they use.

You are both assuming that the oil is flowing properly, which in a new vehicle you would assume should happen, not always the case & most people who get a rebuilt motor for more power know that there is certain mods required for oil flow. Or for a faster flow from one side to the other & back to the sump.

Jason you are assuming they put fully synth in it at the factory. I cant say in 23 years of mechanical workings Ive ever seen that happen but I do know what would if they did because Ive seen silly people do the same thing to a rebuilt car motor. Semi synth.. never.. especially from babying anything .. but I guess roy says so, so it must be true.

Every motor is different anyways.. Ive pulled cracked & shattered rings from a new babied car & the same from a thrashed new car. Any mechanic telling you its really either one way or the other is full of it.. do what you think is best & if you stuff it, you have warranty & you can deny everything if they say its your fault. thats the same as saying yea, just rev it faster & the oil is flowing faster.. oh for sure.

& if you think just loading things up beds them in better then you are wrong.. this is something the stupid internet has taught people.
Do you load up new pads & disks in the same fashion to bed them in as well? ..

This is all m/o & how Ive worked.. not something I "feel" is right lol

[jasonbw]

Hi mate, not quite a correct assumption re factory putting in Synthetic, but no need for me to clarify.. plenty of info in here for the thread owner.

[Dr freedom]

Im not assuming it, as I said, in 23 years im yet to see it happen, but yea, some clarity may help.

[zRoYz]

No way! Honda sent a mechanic .. shut the gates!!
I spose your one of those gulible types that believes everything your "honda mechanic" vomits too lol.
Oh & mechanical engineering degree says "yea, I know better & dont just "feel" it" lol

Yep thats me gullible type, I do all my own work haven't used a mechanic other than me in allot of years. Funny but Honda MPE was worried about fault as happened in 2x bikes delivered to same dealer so they sent out there trouble shooter & he sent his thoughts back & engines were shipped back to factory as they supplied brand new ones. The brief the mech that I know got back was to thrash the shit out of engines when they come in to be serviced. Both these bikes were owned buy older people that hadn't revved them over 6K.


You are both assuming that the oil is flowing properly, which in a new vehicle you would assume should happen, not always the case & most people who get a rebuilt motor for more power know that there is certain mods required for oil flow. Or for a faster flow from one side to the other & back to the sump.

These motors were stock & didn't have a oil flow problem, read my earlier post about syn so you can also rule that out. Just because you think you know something because you read books to become an engineer doesn't mean your right or other things aren't the cause. I know many a engineer that have no idea so you could have said you work at Mc Donalds & gained as much cred as that statement :lmao:

[Dr freedom]

Yep thats me gullible type, I do all my own work haven't used a mechanic other than me in allot of years.
Right here is where I stopped reading .. lots of your posts now make sense to me.

[Jungleboy]

This debate isnt even controversial any more...

Im havent read motomans writeup for years, but its basically on the money. (although his theory on headwork is a bit of a generalisation and probably correct in only about 20% of cases)

Dont baby a new engine, dont sit on a constant RPM dont lug it excessively in a gear thats too high.

The reason a new engine should be run in with a firm hand is that piston rings actually seal because of the gas presure behind them (caused by cylinder compression on the up stroke and crankcase compression on the down stroke) the presurised gases force the ring out against the wall and the honing marks act as a file and wear the ring to suit the cylinder...

The problem with pussyfooting around is that there is a window of opportunity with a new engine (freshly honed cylinder) where if you looked under a microscope you will see the honing marks have very sharp edges which is good for wearing the ring in to match the cylinder, although at a lower rpm the cylinder presure created my be a third of that at higher RPM, so if you spend the first few thousand km at lower rpm the cylinder will seal "perfectly" at this rpm. But when the rpm increases and the cylinder presure rises the ring will distort and not seal as well, hence a reduced power output!

After the first 1000km or so the opportunity to wear the ring to match the cylinder is greatly reduced, then even more so once the switch to synthetic oil is made, when wear becomes almost non existant...

I have run all my bikes in hard but methodically and all have had numbers nearly at the top the range for that particular model.

[Turtle]

This debate isnt even controversial any more...

Im havent read motomans writeup for years, but its basically on the money. (although his theory on headwork is a bit of a generalisation and probably correct in only about 20% of cases)

Dont baby a new engine, dont sit on a constant RPM dont lug it excessively in a gear thats too high.

The reason a new engine should be run in with a firm hand is that piston rings actually seal because of the gas presure behind them (caused by cylinder compression on the up stroke and crankcase compression on the down stroke) the presurised gases force the ring out against the wall and the honing marks act as a file and wear the ring to suit the cylinder...

The problem with pussyfooting around is that there is a window of opportunity with a new engine (freshly honed cylinder) where if you looked under a microscope you will see the honing marks have very sharp edges which is good for wearing the ring in to match the cylinder, although at a lower rpm the cylinder presure created my be a third of that at higher RPM, so if you spend the first few thousand at lower rpm the cylinder will seal "perfectly" at this rpm but the ring will distort and not seal as well at higher rpm when the revs rise and the presure increases, hence a reduced power output!

I have run all my bikes in hard but methodically and all have had numbers nearly at the top the range for that particular model.

Exactly Jai ......also you forgot "NO GEARING DOWN HARD" some people weather they have a mechanics ticket or not, usually believe the same standards their whole life and aren't interested to know about New findings.....

[zRoYz]

Right here is where I stopped reading .. lots of your posts now make sense to me.

Thats good because none of yours make any sense to me, but hey I'm not an engineer.

"but I guess roy says so, so it must be true" :ayyy: maybe I should change my name to Dr Roy.

[Turtle]

Thats good because none of yours make any sense to me, but hey I'm not an engineer.

"but I guess roy says so, so it must be true" :ayyy: maybe I should change my name to Dr Roy.

If you want us to call you the Doctor you better start riding a YAMAHA....... not that there's anything wrong with that......

[MATTK6]

seems everyone is giving there point of view on this and some may be getting offended, so i'll throw in my 2c, run your engine in how ever you want, me personally i ran mine in hard cause that was the life it was going to get so i figured it may as well be run in like that, as for the power output of mine, i know it does have a bit more then others, however this could simply be cause of what number it was in the factory and wether or not the machines had just been recalibrated or not, i dont know, so once again, i say run it in however you feel like it:ayyy:

[Big Lunt]

Just thrash from day one and change the oil regularly:mod_smilie_rockwoot

Anyhow no matter how much power the bike has its who ever has the biggest set of nuts at the corners we will win the race.

[Turtle]

Use 2-stroke..........

[Doonbad]

i run my bike in to the garage so it doesn't wake the neighbors

[zenodamper]

i run my bike in to the garage so it doesn't wake the neighbors

Strawberry complexion? :p

[Johnny]

I have a few things to add..none mechanically though.. but anyways :p


firstly................... :)
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y204/gixar/1267414-batman-retarded.jpg



Secondly.......
What ZROYZ saids on first page,, he said very simliar a few years back elsewhere. I dont go through bikes like undies changing them regularly (did when alot younger and before giving it away for well over ten yrs though, almost yearly if not twice :o), last bike I owned was for 7 yrs, one before that was for three yrs but only cause it was stolen, current ride Ive owned since new for about a year and a bit now , I plan to see out my riding days with her cause its more bike than I can ever handle so no need for an up/downgrade me thinx. I Dont get to a buy a new bike everyday, so having read ZROYZ post a few years back, I took notice and stored it away in head..
Made a hell of alot of sence to me then, and does now, but more importantly, IM GLAD I DID and run in mine the same ( hard), now I think Im being rewarded with it, as it leaves exact same others run in numptie method, oops according to manual :)
Heres a screenshot of an onboard clip while running it in ( "dont do over x rpm", my arse, redline is a long way away :mod_smilie_rockwoot ) no, not going to post clips :p
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y204/gixar/Copyofuntitled.jpg





and Finally.

do a search and put search bar to use, theres been a few threads here on this already, as there has been everywhere :lmao:

[Schtevo]

I can remember my Grandfather (who was a mechanic many years ago) telling me the best way was to use moderate RPM but to load the engine as much as possible without labouring - that is, to load it so that full open throttle would still accelerate.

Thinking about it this would create the high combustion pressures referred to in the article so it seems to be achieving the aim with the ring bedding in - but he was keeping the RPM moderate because of the poorer manufacturing techniques and the bottom end bearings.

I'm an engineer as well and I do tend to believe that the better manufacturing technologies and tighter tolerances removes most of the need for gentle running in of the bottom end - although I freely admit to having done zero research so if someone wants to point me at a reputable source of info to contradict my thoughts I'm happy to be re-educated.

I have never purchased a new bike so not an issue for me - If I was to buy one my thoughts are that I would bed the rings by loading at moderate RPM's - which happens very quickly according to the article - and then change oil and go for a good blast using the full rev range.

[Dr freedom]

The demi god has spoken, whatever roy says is true. The end.

[zRoYz]

The demi god has spoken, whatever roy says is true. The end.

Can you tell my wife that :lmao:

My way of doing things is exactly that my way, I post up to express my way & if others wish to take notice then thats there choice, remember we live in a world of choices which you should know with a name like freedom.

Your post didn't offer up any facts just sprouting your an engineer with the added attack about believing a mindless honda mechanic. I didn't see one mention of how cylinder coatings have also changed with ceramics etc, maybe you could offer up some facts using your engineering back ground instead of useless attacks & then I could even learn something because nobody knows everything & the people that are closed minded will never learn.

[Dr freedom]

instead of useless attacks & then I could even learn something because nobody knows everything & the people that are closed minded will never learn.
oh really ..
but you would know better. Also higher revs also means more oil flow but I'm sure you know that. thats where it started.

Perhaps if you wernt on 'god mode' you may take your own advice as well, ja!
& I gave my reasons, if your were more than just backyard trained, it might have made sense.
Oh & with the mindless honda mechanic, those are your words.. Katoo also offers some advice about a manufactuer in the 2nd post, but your god, so you already read that didnt you lol.

[zRoYz]

if your were more than just backyard trained, it might have made sense.


luv my back yard :ayyy: ja!

[Dr freedom]

Its your 'fountain of knowledge' no doubt lol

[Col]

i love this topic, so many different opinions

last year i had dave at sydney dyno break my 600rr in for me. first time i had a bike broken in that way and i was happy with the result even if it did cost $300

red line is my bone stock 07 600rr and blue line is other bikes for comparison

http://www.lau.id.au/dyno/1.gif
http://www.lau.id.au/dyno/2.gif
http://www.lau.id.au/dyno/3.gif
http://www.lau.id.au/dyno/4.gif

yes i know every dyno reads differently blah blah but riding it made me smile every time.

[Turtle]

oh really .. thats where it started.


Oh & with the mindless honda mechanic, those are your words.. Katoo also offers some advice about a manufactuer in the 2nd post, but your god, so you already read that didnt you lol.

Read it .........Roy put it into his mind............(he's god)

[Turtle]

i love this topic, so many different opinions

last year i had dave at sydney dyno break my 600rr in for me. first time i had a bike broken in that way and i was happy with the result even if it did cost $300

red line is my bone stock 07 600rr and blue line is other bikes for comparison

http://www.lau.id.au/dyno/1.gif
http://www.lau.id.au/dyno/2.gif
http://www.lau.id.au/dyno/3.gif
http://www.lau.id.au/dyno/4.gif

yes i know every dyno reads differently blah blah but riding it made me smile every time.

BREAKING IN ON THE DYNO IS THE BEST WAY TO GET THE BIGGEST HP OUT OF YOUR BIKE.......

[Johnny]

Get ya hands off ya dicks :Rossi: agree to disagree ffs :lmao:




Dr freedom, when did accountants become engineers ? :lmao:

[Turtle]

Get ya hands off ya dicks :Rossi: agree to disagree ffs :lmao:




Dr freedom, when did accountants become engineers ? :lmao:

Shut-up John you thought the Redline onya bike was just a Nice colour...:lmao:

[zRoYz]

Dr freedom, when did accountants become engineers ? :lmao:

When anybody with a computer can post on the internet :lmao:

[_chado77]

wow now that problems solved lets work on something really simple.:confused1:

how does cold fusion sound or if thats too easy how bout perpetual motion :ayyy:


seriously though(getting work orientated in the after hours time:mad: ) obviously everyones conclusions/theories have been reached by thorough research and accurate experiments..

i dare say the only people who can say this would be the factorys due to the budget needed to carry out such testing...


but what do i do?? with all my new cars and bikes i have brought i just ride/drive as i normally do, andjust follow there servicing schedule:ayyy:

[zRoYz]

My only excuse is I'm male & don't read the manual :)

[Jungleboy]

i dare say the only people who can say this would be the factorys due to the budget needed to carry out such testing...


I disagree with this one, lots of information in scientific fields that is considered fact is obtained over long periods of time through empirical data..

For anyone in the racing/engine building industry who hasnt had their head burried in sand over the last 10-15 years, it is a given that for best performance and engine must be run in with a "firm hand"

I use that expression as their will always be debate over the exact method used (Heat cycles, exact rpm used, load intervals and duration etc etc).

With each tuner splitting hairs trying to prove that their way is best, but one thing that is for sure is if you use the "driving miss daisy" technique you will end up with a lemon..

By the way I will be out at Oran Park on saturday running in several brand new (0km) 08 R1's and R6's :D

[_chado77]

^^not to split hairs but declaring the 'empirical' method as an actual 'fact' on a topic such as engines... leaves me a bit bewildered:confused: ..

but hey im not an engine designer/ R&D person, :ayyy:

[MATTK6]

if ya need any help with the running ins jai i'll volinteer:lmao:

[Jungleboy]

^^not to split hairs but declaring the 'empirical' method as an actual 'fact' on a topic such as engines... leaves me a bit bewildered:confused: ..

but hey im not an engine designer/ R&D person, :ayyy:

Thats my point, thousands of race teams and high performance engine builders the world over have come to the same conclusion about this. Pretty much the only people hanging on to the old traditional "softly softly" approach are old time mechanics in dingy little workshops that still bring up Boldors and early Z9's when refering to performance bikes. And some noob mechanics have been taught by these same people and cant think for themselves.

The fact is this has also been proven by the factories using scientific methods.

In 2006 I had an R1 engine built by one of the Graves Yamaha mechanics (Yamaha America's factory race team) for a race bike I prepared I was given an exact procedure to run this engine in on the dyno that was directly from the Yamaha factory in Japan. They were quite specific on how there race engines were to be run in.

You may be suprised to hear that by the time this procedure had been finnished the bike only had 80km on it and had already hit the rev limiter several times...


I dont have time to do a thesis on this for the sake of an internet argument.

But If your still not sure try ringing a few reputable dyno guys and ask their opinions.

Shoot the Head mechanics for the Aussie Superbike teams an email.

Honda: Paul Free
Suzuki: Phil Tainton
Yamaha: Donny Stafford/Kev marshall
Kawasaki: Dave Cullen (Radar)

Or

Geoff Winzer Who builds most of the privateer Honda superbikes which are often quicker than the HRC Hondas. He built both Russle Holland and Glen Allerton's bikes (Hollands Pivateer Honda Still holds the Aus superbike lap record for Phillip Island)

If your still not convinced shoot World supersport/superbike champions TenKate an email (James Toselands CBR1000RR was pumping out more than 220 Horsepower at the rear wheel) with an equal all time superbike top speed record of 322kph at Monza (equal with Michael Fabrizio's DFX CBR1000RR).

If you can cantact any of the people above ask them how they run their engines in? I will garauntee none of them will run their bikes in conservatively.

If the factorys have already done this type of scientific testing you are refering to, would you know about it? Have you read everything published in the relavent Journals (Try the Society of Automotive engineers... S.A.E)

I dont have the time to pursue it but Ive seen enough Impirical data and discussed it with enough people in the racing industry that I dont need convincing!

Im not trying to be a smartarse so dont take me the wrong way, Its just that its almost common knowledge in the engine building industry that this is the way create the best cylinder/ring seal and best HP numbers.

Cheers Jai

[WET4URacing]

Geoff Winzer Who builds most of the privateer Honda superbikes which are often quicker than the HRC Hondas. He built both Russle Holland and Glen Allerton's bikes (Hollands Pivateer Honda Still holds the Aus superbike lap record for Phillip Island)


jai i think sorry know for a fact the little man at wang DID not build russells engines. they were built here in wenty/pendle hill. pls dont tap at the key board with shite

[Dr freedom]

First time Ive ever seen a race motors run in process compared to a bike you buy new from a dealer & ride away..

Graves advised me not to buy the velocity stacks they make for my bike.. they said to just leave the stockers in.
I took the advice because they were advising me against their own product lol, cant beat that for customer service.

[Zee]

Ever pulled down a brand new factory engine????? Fark me the amount of machining sworf :eyecrazy: :eyecrazy: :eyecrazy:
And they say don't even get the lint off a rag on the journal/bearings :confused:

[Johnny]

^^^ Which is exactly why with mine (despite running in hard), its first 1000 k service was its third oil change :)

[Turtle]

I say that people with "Glass houses shouldn't throw stones" when having a go at someone as to where or who built or manufactures something......hmmmm ?????

[Jungleboy]

jai i think sorry know for a fact the little man at wang DID not build russells engines. they were built here in wenty/pendle hill. pls dont tap at the key board with shite

Well someones telling porky's then arnt they :)

Anyway Paul, back on topic, you must have some usefull run in tips for fellow rodents :)

[WET4URacing]

the way i see it. it takes a load of time and money to build superbike engines properly so treat it with the respect you think it deserves. if i was to see a customer or one of my riders in the past abuse a new engine i had screwed together it would be "NO MORE SOUP 4 U"(said with eastern block accent). and Ian says the same. the fastest engines come out of this end of town. the old boy knows his stuff. go the rat

[FIREBLADE]

i only know one way to run in my bikes and thats to
ride it like i stole it.
never missed a beat so far.

[Captain]

Fireblade,
Please don't tease us with your avatar - have the decency to post it up in full size!!!!! I got really close to the screen but I cannot read it ......

[zRoYz]

Fireblade,
Please don't tease us with your avatar - have the decency to post it up in full size!!!!! I got really close to the screen but I cannot read it ......

I don't care what you post Captain, I never get past looking at your sig :ayyy:

[j-rad]

dunno about the answer, but we visited the Factory Kwaka Factory in Japan when my uncle raced WSB for them as a privateer and they hold their bikes on the rev limiter for 1 full minute before sending them out....

'Tested'...........

LOL

[FIREBLADE]

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh142/SUX350/sluts.jpg

[Captain]

:clap: :clap: :clap:

:ayyy:

[j-rad]

:clap clap:

GOLD

[Turtle]

dunno about the answer, but we visited the Factory Kwaka Factory in Japan when my uncle raced WSB for them as a privateer and they hold their bikes on the rev limiter for 1 full minute before sending them out....

'Tested'...........

LOL

Yeah i cant see Superbike riders doing laps at half throttle for half the day.......Jai you're on the money.....

[Col]

Time to revisit this topic
I had my new 848 broken in on the dyno by Dave at Sydney Dyno and here are the results

Im quite enjoying the bike but am still getting use to the power delivery of the Vtwin compared to an inline4 screamer. I do miss the scream but am sure i will grow to love the vtwin sound and feel given time.

http://www.lau.id.au/images/screenshot.jpeg
http://www.lau.id.au/images/screenshot1.jpeg

[Birdman45]

why the two charts of the same run? one is just showing max torque and one max rpm I spose.................. but how was it run in and how does this tell us it was of benefit exactly? Not having a go, just asking. Thanks

[Kat00]

Could that dip be tuned out Trev?

[Tarrasque]

Could that dip be tuned out Trev?

I know the aprilia's have the same kinda dip around that rpm range, and the reason for that was 'noise' reasons (to get under 94db when testing). So most likely it could be tuned out. (also going to test ride a 848 this weekend)

[Alex.]

I do miss the scream but am sure i will grow to love the vtwin sound and feel given time.

Yes, you will love the v-twin sound but i'm quite biased.

[Col]

yeah unfortuantely i dont have a street run in one to compare it to but anyhooo thats the dyno run from the work done on my bike



why the two charts of the same run? one is just showing max torque and one max rpm I spose.................. but how was it run in and how does this tell us it was of benefit exactly? Not having a go, just asking. Thanks

[the rocketeer]

why the two charts of the same run? one is just showing max torque and one max rpm I spose.................. but how was it run in and how does this tell us it was of benefit exactly? Not having a go, just asking. Thanks

i thought those 2 graphs were a "before and after"... :confused1:
Also, i'd like to know how the mechanic ran it in too.
Thanks for the info :)